On the G3 b&w on the other hand the soldered cables would easily break off if they got caught somewhere while opening the side panel. Reason being that I don't have to solder anything and therefore the cables should me more stable.
#G4 QUICKSILVER MOD#
Compared to the G3 b&w 3D printed holder this one is a bit different of course and I spray painted it grey.Ģ) For the front power switched and LEDs I printed a simple holder panel but unlike with the G3 b&w mod I did not use flat switches and used Lian Li's kit instead.
#G4 QUICKSILVER ZIP#
Put those panels on the 3D printed holder and put it behind the ZIP slot. One 3D printed part is for the USB/audio front panel which I designed to work with panels like this. Later I'd like to publish the files for those.
Their H110M DGS is technically an mATX board, is almost as small as an mini-ITX board and has two PCI slots.ġ) I have used parts from The Laser Hive but I have also 3D printed two parts.
An example would be the Gigabyte Z87M-D3H (if memory serves), yet on the ASUS P877M the ATX connector is moved a bit away from the top edge.ĪSRock to the rescue! At least for Skylake. There were moments of frustration for me where I found boards where the RAM slots cleared the optical drive yet it was the ATX power connector that screwed me. Use an mini-ITX board however and you are limited to one PCI slot. If you want an optical drive things can easily collide with the optical drive holder, usually it's the RAM sticks or the CPU cooler. If you don't use an optical drive it's easier. Just like with the G3 b&w or the G4 Sawtooth case you have to find a motherboard. I try to illustrate my point with pictures as best as I can.īefore we begin here is a general point. The hackintosh parts are not really worth going over, so here are a few points on the case mod. In 2018 I spent a lot of time case modding old Apple PowerMac cases, specifically the G3 blue&white, a G4 Sawtooth and two G4 Quicksilvers. I also installed a spare SATA drive I had with an SATA to ATA converter.Building a CustoMac Hackintosh: Buyer's Guide I am now in the process of removing and polishing the handles, and then I will get to the other side panel, which is not nearly as scratched. It must have worked, because I didn't fry the machine and it was on all night, and somewhat cool air was coming out the back. I cleaned the processors off, re-pasted them, and re-installed the heat sink: I used MX-5, it was recommended somewhere for use with these machines specifically due to the fact that they have mylar over the processor, and the silver-based grease can get trapped under there and can cause shorts. With that completed, I blew out the inside with my air gun, cleaned out the other remaining dust, and proceeded to put some new heat sink grease on. A little dry-based lubricant on the mechanism makes for a completely smooth opening: I also removed and polished the opening tab. While not 100% perfect, I was absolutely pleased with the results. Since I have sanded and buffed paint jobs before, I decided to try using these skills to work out the scratches on the plastic. To me, a cosmetic restoration is as important as the insides. The nice thing about these machines versus the textured, beige machines is that their finish is completely smooth. The machine, while wholly intact, left much to be desired cosmetically, especially on the door-side plastic: This is not just a Quicksilver, but a dual 1.0 GHz model: the top of the line! I was at Macworld NY the summer the Quicksilvers were introduced, and I have had the poster of one from then ever since. I can't say how much I have always wanted one of these. With many, many thanks to the generosity of I am now the proud owner of a 2003 Quicksilver G4.
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